The impeller must be replaced if it is worn out or has been damaged by debris or by running the pump dry. Symptoms of a defective impeller are low pumping pressure and low flow causing overheating of the boat engine. Poor pump performance can also be caused by slippage of V-belts, so belts should be checked for tightness. To replace the impeller remove screws and cover, pull out the impeller with needle nose pliers or two screwdrivers. Be careful not to dent the pumping chamber with these tools. When inserting new impeller, line up key slot in impeller with the key in the shaft. Use oil on shaft and avoid forcing the impeller onto the shaft.

The impeller should also be removed for storage periods to prevent the blades from taking a permanent set.

If water drips from the weep hole or from the area where the shaft exits the pump, the seal is defective and must be replaced. While the Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) barrier seal provides a first line of defense, prolonged running of the pump with a leaky seal can destroy the ball bearings resulting in catastrophic pump failure and engine shut-down. For seal replacement, the pump must be removed from the engine and disassembled in order to gain access to the seal area. Where mechanical seals are used, both components (stationary and rotating member) must be replaced at the same time. Lip seals must be pushed out of their press-fitted position and new seals pressed into place, using a sealant on the outside of the lip seal housing. Refer to exploded view drawings for seal location and part numbers for ordering purposes.

SUCTION LIFT

Suction lift of 15 feet is possible when impeller is wet. Suction lines must be air tight in order for pump to self-prime. A foot valve at beginning of suction line is recommended.